How to install grab bar into ceramic tile?
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Answers:
I assume the new grab uses screws to attach to the walls, and that it is 32" long, which would span three studs behind the wall. The bar sould be secured ideally in the wall studs at BOTH ends; if the is not possible, then it should be secured that way at ONE end and with toggle bolts at the other. The "stud" end should be, if possible, the one closest to the point at which someone would grab the bar, so it takes most of the pulling stress.
The trick here is locating the studs; you'll need a stud finder with enough detection capability to read through the ceramic. You can probably rent one. Understand how it works before you use it, by trying it a location where you know for sure the location of the studs somewhere else in the house.
Once the stud has been located for ONE end of the grab, mark a line with a felt tip marker (pen or oencil won't mark the tile) where you will drill on that end. Then use a level to mark a line where the OTHER end will go. The next trick is drilling holes through the ceramic and a little bit into the stud to guide the screws in for just ONE end of the grab. Start by taking a metal punch or big nail and tapping a point on your marked line where the screw hole(s) will go. The idea is to remove a tiny bit of the ceramic at that point -just a dimple, barely able to see it. This will knock off the glass coating of the ceramic tile and expose the terra cotta underneath. That's the place where you'll drill with the masonry bit that's big enough to make a hole only slightly larger than the diameter of the shaft of the screws. If you've been able to use studs for BOTH ends, then partially screw in the end you've just done, and line up the screw holes on the other end so you can see your marked line through them. Now mark the point at THAT end where you're going to make your holes. You might be able to do this with your nail or punch; otherwise use the marker. Then repeat the drilling procedure.
But Let's suppose one or both ends must use toggle bolts. Here's a picture of what you want:
http://industrialhardware.com/images/pro...
You'll need to get a bolt that's thin enough to pass through the holes in the grab. And you'll need to drill your holes large enough to let the wing pass through to the other side. It is possible that you can't do both holes, because one would run into the other, making one big sort double hole like the Mastercard symbol, or, that you will destroy the ceramic tile. In that case, you'll use a plastic wall anchor for one of the holes. If the holes are vertical with respect to one another (one below the other) use the plastic anchor for the hole that will most likely get pushed toward the wall when the grab is used (the lower one, I would think).
Plastic anchors are usually sold as a set and include the screws that work with them, so get whatever kind has screws that will fit your grab -take one of the screws that came with the grab to the store to check. They also require a drill bit of the correct size, so get that size masonry or ceramic drill bit. (A lot of fuss, I know).
With all this in hand, drill your holes -one large enough to accomodate the width of the toggle bolt wing, and other just right for the plastic anchor.
Take the plastic anchor and hammer it gently into the hole for it. You made need to rap it pretty hard as the rim gets close to the ceramic. It is a good idea to put a small block of wood over the anchor and tap THAT so you don't whack out a hunk of ceramic by accident. When finished, the rim of the anchor will project above the surface of the tile a bit.
Take the toggle bolt apart, put the bolt part through the hole on the grab, then turn the wing back on to the bolt, just enough to get it threaded on a few turns. The wings should fold up away from the wall -toward you. Fold them up and push them through the hole inside the wall, the grab following along as you do so. They'll spring open on the inside to grip the back of the wall when you tighten the screw -but don't do that yet -let the grab hang loose.
Back to the anchor. Now put the screw through the grab and push the point into the anchor, and screw it in tight. Because the screw is a bit fatter than the channel for it in the anchor, the plastci anchor expands and binds up against the seramic. This will draw the grab onto the tile. Now back to the toggle bolt. Screw it in. If it doesn't seem to screw in, that's because the wing is spinning behind the wall. With your fingers or a tool, pull the bolt hear toward you as you screw it in; this will set the wings against the back wall. You'll need to let go of the bolt as you get near done but by then it will have grabbed the back wall.
The above instructions should work for you no matter what combination of screws, anchors or bolts you end up with.
But one thing you'll notice is that you never screw into the ceramic itself -the closest you come is a plastic anchor. And those anchors are the least secure method. Best bet -directly into the stud, next best, toggle bolt, least is plastic anchors.
I hope this helps.
If you need to ask, you'd better let a professional do it. Grab bars must be secured into wall framing so they are secure enough to do what they are supposed to do - support a lot of weight. Simply drilling a hole through tile and using molly-bolts will result in a very dangerous installation and someone, likely an invalid or elderly person, will get hurt when the whole wall gives way.
Planning for the New Shower Stall
Steps
1Step OneConsider the size and configuration for the new shower stall. Are you replacing the existing stall with one of the same size or are you looking to increase the size of your shower? Replacing size for size will likely mean you can use the existing drain and possibly the existing hot and cold water plumbing as well.
2Step TwoChanging size or shape of the stall will likely mean you'll have to move the floor drain, and that can involve breaking concrete or the mortar bed of the shower pan.
3Step ThreeInstalling a larger shower stall will require you to do one of two things. Either remove part of a wall to get the stall into the bathroom, or purchase a multi-piece unit that you assemble and install inside the room.
Removing the Old Shower Stall
Steps
1Step OneIt's best to totally remove the existing shower stall before you try to install the new stall. This will mean removing the existing plumbing fixtures, the drain, the shower wall and shower pan and exposing the existing studs prior to beginning installation.
2Step TwoTurn off the water supply to the shower and take down and remove the existing shower doors.
3Step ThreeRemove the knobs and decorative trim for the existing shower fixtures. Tthis usually involves lifting a decorative cap from the knob to reveal the screw holding the knob on.
4Step FourDetach the shower head pipe by gripping it near the wall and turning in a counterclockwise direction.
5Step FiveLift out the tub strainer by inserting pliers into the crosspieces and turning in a counter- clockwise direction.
6Step SixUnderneath the strainer is a threaded pipe called a drain shoe that connects to the drainpipe in the floor. Remove the shoe by turning it counterclockwise.
7Step SevenUse a pry bar to remove the wall panels. You should remove any existing tiles or drywall to expose the stud wall.
8Step EightPry up and remove the existing shower pan.
Installing a New Fiberglass Shower Stall
Steps
1Step OneIf you are replacing size for size and have chosen a shower pan with a drain placement that supposedly matches the pan you removed, dry fit the pan and check that the hole placement really does line up.
2Step TwoIf you are going to be moving the drain, chisel out the mortar base and remove the pieces. Put the new shower pan in place and mark on the floor where the new drainpipe needs to be positioned. Remove the shower pan and cut the hole.
3Step ThreeInstall your new drainpipe and P-trap (according to local codes) and run the line back to the main drain.
4Step FourDetermine the placement of your hot and cold fixtures and adjust the pipe fittings to line up with the new shower stall. This will likely require cutting into the existing copper pipes, adding new pipe and fixtures and sweat soldering them in place.
5Step FiveInstall the showerhead pipe. It will require a riser pipe from the hot and cold fixtures that needs to be supported by installing a crosspiece between the studs.
6Step SixTemporarily put the shower pan in place and install the fixture knobs. Drape the walls with plastic and turn the water on to test your plumbing for leaks. If you find any, fix them before going any further.
7Step SevenPut insulation between the exposed wall studs to block the noise of the water hitting the walls of the shower from the rest of the house when the new shower is being used.
8Step EightUse a light masonry or mortar mix to build a base for the shower pan (floor). Following manufacturer's directions, install the shower pan and drain. Seal the seam where the pan and drain meet with silicone caulking to prevent any leaks
9Step NineMeasure and cut the holes in the walls for the shower fixtures and showerhead (if the holes aren't predrilled). Measure carefully, as you only get one chance to get it right.
10Step TenPrepare the shower wall for installation by applying panel adhesive around the edges of the panels and on the wall studs.
11Step Eleven Attach the panels, starting at the base and then flexing them onto the wall as you move up.
12Step Twelve Allow the adhesive to set up and then seal the seams between panels with silicon caulk.
Finishing Up
Steps
1Step OneInstall green drywall (waterproof) or cement board to the areas above the panels. Leave a 1/8-inch gap between the board and the stall walls. This will be sealed with caulk as part of the finishing.
2Step TwoFinish the drywall seams, then paint or install tile as you prefer.
3Step ThreeInstall the door tracks and the doors themselves as per manufacturer directions.
4Step FourApply silicon caulking along the side and base tracks, the seam between the drywall and the shower stall and between the shower stall and the bathroom floors and wall.
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