I have well water. The hot water stinks and the anode rod is destroyed, have tried magnesium and aluminum.?
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the current answere is a good one I can add this not only Sears but get into the yellow pages and find a local plumber that carries, installs water softners and services them. They will come to your house at no charge and do the tests and recommend the proper course of action. There is one hiden benifit from all this. You know how anode rod was destroyed?Think of what this is doing to your faucets,toilet mechanics and hot water tank itself. It is eating everything away average life on valves is 5 to 8 yrs. now you get to replace these thing as well. My suggestion is get the pro's to come to you they will give you the test and of course try and sell you a product you don't have to take it but let them know your checking prices. Competition is good it's the american way!!!!! Best of luck you know what you need to do now get the best product for what you can afford.
If the water has the "rotten egg" smell, the problem is hydrogen sulfite. I'd suggest going to a Sears store and having your water tested - it's free. Sears sells some fairly sophisticated water systems which can target your particular problem (hydrogen sulfite, red-water iron, acidity/alkalinity, etc.). The cure for the hydrogen sulfite (if this is the only problem you have), is to have a bleach dispensing tank installed, followed by a mixing tank, followed by a filtering tank which removes particulates created by the sulfite removal. All Sears stores (the larger ones) offer this service. Take a small sample of your well water into the store (make sure that it is a "raw" sample, not filtered in any way) and let them determine what the problem(s) are. They can then offer you specific solutions to your problem and generally have certified plumbers to do the installation if you decide to have the problem addressed and you'd prefer to have the installation done by the "pros".
CHLORINATION OF WELL PROCEDURE
Rid your well water of that rotten egg smell and iron bacteria with this temporary solution.
BEFORE PROCEEDING be sure that you fully understand the characteristics of your well, the well pump and all related hardware. IF YOU ARE UNSURE OF YOUR SYSTEM OR ANY PART OF THIS PROCEDURE please consult a well expert for advice or assistance in doing this work. COSTLY AND IRREVERSIBLE DAMAGE MAY RESULT IF WORK IS DONE BY OTHER THAN A KNOWLEDGEABLE INDIVIDUAL. These are intended to be generic instructions. Wells vary considerably in design.
There are often relatively harmless bacteria that exist in wells that cause slime like residues with iron and manganese. They also are often the cause of hydrogen sulfide that is the source of the rotten egg odor. These bacteria prevent proper operation of filters and softeners and cause taste, odor and staining problems.
It is often possible to control and even eliminate the bacteria problems with a single or relatively infrequent chlorination of a well.
A common, generic procedure is as follows:
1.Locate at or near the bottom of the well system pressure tank either a valve or a plug. If a valve open this to flush out the bottom of the tank. If a plug, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE WELL PUMP AND OPEN A CONVENIENT FAUCET TO RELIEVE THE PRESSURE. With pressure relieved, remove the plug and turn the power on to the well and run this way until clear. Reverse the procedure and replace the plug.
2.Mix 2 gallons of standard household liquid chlorine bleach into 5 gallons of water. Adding four (4) ounces of food-grade polyphosphate can enhance the process. This can be a non-sudsing laundry aid or can be ordered from the factory or distributor for $10.00. Use of polyphosphate is helpful but not critical.
3.On systems with pitless adapters or of similar design, remove the cap. To obtain access to the well casing. Take care to avoid getting any dirt or debris into the casing, as it is almost impossible to remove and may cause well or pump damages. Some well systems such as shallow well driven point design will require some ingenuity and patience in order to expose the draw pipe.
4.Pour in the above mixture.
5.Connect a hose to any outside faucet. Bring the hose to the well.
6.Turn on the water at the outside faucet.
7.Allow water to circulate for about 15 minutes. When this is happening you will soon be getting a bleach smell at the hose. As you circulate, move the hose around and you will be washing down the inside of the casing or draw pipe. That is helpful for the long-term success of the process.
8.While the water is circulating open ALL faucets in the house one at a time and flush all toilets once or twice until the smell of bleach is noticed at every faucet in the house. Turn off each faucet when the smell is noticed.
9.Pour an additional one (1) gallon of UNDILUTED bleach into the well and continue circulating for another 15 minutes.
10.Turn off the hose and allow the entire system to rest with NO WATER FLOW FOR AT LEAST FOUR (4) HOURS. If at all possible, allow the system to remain with no water use other than toilet flushing over night.
11.Flush the hose water down the well until the water is clear of the chlorine smell. Turn off the hose.
12.Open each faucet until the smell of bleach is absent.
13.Replace the well fittings.
If this procedure must be repeated more than two or three times a year, review the process to be certain that there is not a leg of the plumbing that is not being properly treated. If you are satisfied that the procedure was properly done, then you should consider installing a chemical feed pump. Failure of this procedure to work long-term is an indication of an aquifer that is contaminated, or in the case of hydrogen sulfide, there is a natural source of the gas that is not associated with a bacteria in the water.
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