How long do refrigerators last?
Question:I can find hundreds of questions about how long a particular type of food is supposed to last, but I can't find the operating lifetime of a refrigerator.
Assuming it is a quality name brand type. If it is off brand what is the quickest amount of time refrigerators can stop functioning properly. We have a offbrand piece of junk that is only a couple years old, but it can only cool down to 50 deg inside the main part.
Answers:
They say that most are good for about 7 years I think. But it just depends. I've had name brand stuff quit in a few years and the cheaper off brand stuff last for ever. If yours is not able to cool any better than that it may have a problem with the compressor, or be in need of coolant.
Our family has often had them last more than 20 years. But sometimes you need to get rid of them sooner to get better economy on the electric consumption. (Sometimes it isn't good to keep them forever if technology has improved like most refrigerant based system have over the last 15 years.)
[My old Briggs & Stratton lawn mower is over 32 years and still going strong. I can mow the lawn twice on a tank of gas, so no big hurry to upgrade in this instance.]
In 33 years I am on my 3rd fridg. I have never had one to go bad-i just bought a new one because my wife wanted it. I would guess that one should last at least 10-12 years. If the freezer is working okay, but the fresh food side is not, then maybe the defrost is not working. or maybe the freezer is frozen up in the coils.
Mine has lasted over 20 years and is still going strong - but then I've had friends with some modern ones that have had to be repaired after a few years.
Between 8 and 14 years is typical. Generally what breaks are the extras--ice makers, cold water fountains, etc.
We have a Sears Kenmore purchased in 1988 still going strong. Several years ago the tube to the ice maker failed. I replaced it myself.
Most refrigerators last @ least 10yrs or more. You need to check your warranty. Some thing is seriously wrong with your refrigerator. Maybe its still under warranty. Or can be replaced due to it only working 2 yrs. 50 degrees is not safe for foods. Contact the store you bought it from they can direct you to who to complain about this.
The problem with refrigeration equipment is they are like jig-saw puzzles. 50degrees can mean so many problems. The hard part is narrowing those things down. Not being there to see it isn't any easyer. If its only a couple years old you shouldn't have any major issues. Check the simple things first. Make sure the condensor is clean and the fan is running that is the outside coil in the back or underneath. Is the evaporator fan inside the unit running make sure it is. check the door seals as well. Last resort would be to pull everything out of the case shut down the unit and manual defrost it to make sure the coil isn't iced. If there is a major problem call a pro. Refrigeration systems can become quite dangerous if one has no experience with them.
In any kind of device, by probability, there wil lbe a few % that fail very early, and some that last far longer than the average. My brother has an old GE refrigerator form the 1930's that's still running. We have a freezer from about 1966 that has only had to have the starter capacitor replaced. We also have a GE wall-mount refrigerator from ~1957; it had the compressor replaced about 1978 and is still running.
Before you junk the refrigerator, if it is a "frost free" type, there are a few parts you should check first, because if they fail, the symptoms can mimic a worn out compressor or partial loss of the gas. Despite the name; frost actually forms in a frost-free refrigerator; it just happens were you don't see it! The refrigerator should periodically go into a "defrost cycle" to melt it and let the water drain out. Assuming it is a top-freezer bottom refrigerator type, the cooling coils will be in the space between the bottom of the freezer and the top of the refrigerator. A small fan continuously blows the air in the freezer through the space where these coils are to chill the air, then it passes back to the freezer. Part of this chilled air is diverted to the refrigerator to keep it cool also. Any moisture present in this air freezes out on the coils which will gradually reduce the efficiency of the cooling process. To get rid of this acumulated frost, there is a timer motor which periodically shuts off the compressor and circulating fan and turns on an electric heating unit to melt the frost. There is also a thermal sensor in series with the heater which shuts off the unit once the coil area has warmed up enough. Not every company does this exactly the same way, but this is the most common arrangement. If any part of the automatic defroster circuit fails, the coils gradually load up with more and more ice untill it is practically a solid block and little or no air can circulate through where the coils are. Check the vent holes where the cold air leaves the coils. Look in with a flashlight see if it looks like its plugged up with ice (Note there will probably be some styrofoam insulation in the area, so make certian you are really looking at ice!) If it looks like an iceberg,the easiest way to test is to turn the refrigerator off and leave with the doors open at least overnight, or untill the ice has melted away. Then re-start (doors closed) if it starts working OK even if just for a day, it is probably a problem in the automatic defrost curcuit. Usually, the timer motor is the part that's busted. I hope this is of some help.
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