Hints on planting Ires bulbs. Do they need real rich soil and any other suggestion.?
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Some of my iris plants are over 50 years old; they belonged to my great-grandmother. My personal tips:
1. When I plant my iris, I put a small amount of rich soil (compost, manure, etc.) in the hole.
2. The rhizome (bulb) needs to sit slightly above the ground in order for the iris to flower. Don't worry, the iris won't fall over. The rhizome will send roots into the ground to hold the plant up.
3. Iris need a sunny location. Sunshine on the rhizome is what prompts them to bloom.
4. Iris do not like mulch covering the rhizome. I mulch around the plants but keep the rhizome uncovered.
5. Some iris, as they age, do not bloom as often. The foilage, however, remains beautiful.
6. Bonus: iris spreads, so plant a few and get a lot!
You've made a good choice!
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Iris
Irises are named after the Greek goddess of the rainbow and grow wild throughout the northern hemisphere, from high Himalayan bogs to arid Greek hillsides and the banks of British canals.
In this article
Recommended varieties Growing tips Safety tipsProblem solver Where to see them
Recommended varieties
Irises are incredibly useful upright perennials that can be grown in many different areas. Choose well and you'll have irises in flower for six months, from November to June. You'll also get a wide colour range from rich blues to flashy yellows and extraordinary combinations such as butterscotch yellow and violet. Many also have beautiful, intricate patterns.
Botanists divide irises into two key groups: the rhizomatous, which have rhizomes on or just beneath the soil, and those that grow from bulbs. The first group divides into two further sections, the beardless and bearded (with a distinctive little beard in the flower centre), all of which can get very confusing. The best way to decide which ones you want to grow is to visit specialist nurseries and check their colours and growing conditions.
Beardless border irises
Pacific coast irises have a wide, typically quiet range of colours (good for calming things down in the border) with attractive veining. The other main kinds in this group are Siberian and water irises.
I. 'Broadleigh Carolyn': a classic Pacific coast iris with lovely clear blue flowers. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it its Award of Garden Merit (AGM).
I. graminea: also called the dwarf plum tart iris, this Spurian iris has slender, deep purple flowers almost hidden by the narrow leaves. They really do smell of hot plum tart and, if grown in clumps, flower so abundantly there are plenty to cut for indoors. Has been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's AGM.
I. orientalis: another Sprurian iris, this is robust and reliable, with slender yellow and white flowers, and ideal for a dry, sunny border. Has been awarded the AGM.
I. sibirica: like its hybrids, it's one of the easiest irises to grow forming a dense clump of slender leaves with a neat, tidy shape and a mass of dainty, early summer flowers in blue, violet, white or veined. 'Butter and Sugar' is creamy yellow and white, and 'Papillon' pale blue. Also see Pond plants, below. The Royal Horticultural Society has given I. sibirica and 'Butter and Sugar' its AGM.
Border bearded irises
Many date back to the 17th century, and some (I. germanica, I. florentina and the variegated form of the scented I. pallida) are just as popular today.
I. germanica: has relatively small, late spring flowers, in a wonderful shade of rich purple
Pond plants
Irises include some of the easiest and most attractive marginal pond plants, the majority of which can also be grown in damp borders that don't dry out. They come in all shades and mixes of blue, purple and white, including double-flowered varieties. Some of the most dramatic are the modern Japanese hybrids that have extremely complicated markings. They tend to be vigorous and are easy to propagate by division in early spring (instead of the more usual August).
I. ensata: a beardless Japanese iris with purple or reddish-purple midsummer flowers. 'Rose Queen' is soft pink. Both have been awarded the Royal Horticultural Society's AGM.
I. laevigata: a beardless, broad-leaved iris with early and midsummer blue flowers. 'Variegata' has highly attractive green-and-white striped leaves topped by pale purple flowers. Note that it is the only iris that needs to be grown in water all the time. Both have been awarded the AGM.
I. pseudacorus: the familiar yellow flag iris of wild water meadows is much too vigorous for most gardens if planted in the wet ground beside a natural pond, but in a border where the soil is not too dry it will be more manageable. The almost glowing golden leaves of 'Variegata' are particularly beautiful in early spring. Both have been awarded the AGM.
Winter and spring interest
Although irises are principally associated with full sun, there are some species that not only tolerate but actually thrive in cooler conditions. They are free flowering in winter, providing a perpetual succession of blooms.
I. foetidissima: called the roast beef iris after the smell of its crushed leaves, it's one of the most adaptable plants regarding soil or position, and is often found growing in hedgerows in the south of England. It has slender leaves and produces insignificant brownish flowers in April. In late autumn the plump seed pods open to reveal brilliantly glowing, sealing-wax red seeds that remain on the plant into the New Year. 'Variegata' has striking white markings but is prone to rust if not divided regularly. Both have been awarded the AGM.
I. japonica: a slightly tender iris that likes an area in front of a sunny, sheltered wall. It produces a broad fan of leaves and, in late spring, exotic pale blue or white frilly flowers, dramatically splashed with purple, with an orange crest. 'Ledger' is reputedly the hardiest form. 'Variegata' has attractively striped green and white leaves. I. japonica and 'Variegata' have been awarded the AGM.
I. unguicularis: whenever the temperature rises above freezing for a few days, this will produce late winter and early spring flowers, adding up to many hundreds over the season on established clumps. The excellent 'Mary Barnard' is the most free-flowering form. It has slightly narrower leaves than the ordinary type and starts producing its rich purple flowers early in November. In cool springs, it may continue into April, although it usually stops in March. 'Walter Butt' has scented, almost grey flowers, and might even start flowering in late autumn.
Dwarf irises
There's a wide choice for the front of the border or rock garden, although some can be very tricky. One of the best is:
I. cristata: a tiny 6cm (2in) high plant, which gradually spreads to form small patches. Has relatively large, rather flat, blue or white crested, late spring flowers
Growing tips
Site and soil preferences
Irises generally prefer well-drained soil, the exception being the water-edge varieties. Add grit and humus to open up heavy clay soils. Pacific coast irises require neutral to acid soil and, unlike most irises, flower equally well in partial shade and full sun. I. cristata prefers humus-rich soil in partial shade and is best divided just after flowering. I. unguicularis likes the poor soils and dry conditions of the southern Mediterranean and North Africa, and flowers best when tucked up against a south-facing wall.
Planting depths
All irises, except the bulbous varieties, should be planted with the broad, fleshy rhizomes at or just below the soil surface. The rhizomes need direct sunlight and mustn't be shaded by surrounding plants. Plant the bulbous irises 10-20cm (4-8in) deep in autumn, and lift and divide as the leaves fade. Juno irises should be planted 5cm (2in) deep.
Feeding and dividing
Feed with a low-nitrogen, slow-release fertiliser and add extra lime for very acid soils. Late summer is the best time to move or divide most forms, but divide I. cristata just after its spring flowering.
When dividing the rhizome, keep the young, vigorous parts and discard the old. Water the newly planted sections in dry weather in their first season after transplanting, to help them establish new root systems.
Staying smart
Established clumps of some free-flowering forms can be rather untidy. This can be partially overcome by reducing the leaves to two-thirds their length in late autumn, and gently pulling out any dead foliage. This has the additional benefit of reducing the resident snail population that frequently causes unsightly holes in the flowers.
Growing from seed
Most iris species can be grown from seed, although some may take many years to flower. Hybrid irises will not grow true from seed and need to be propagated by division.
Safety tips
Take care when handling irises as the sap can cause skin irritation. All parts of the plant can be poisonous if eaten.
Problem solver
Pond irises are so vigorous they shouldn't be allowed to seed or they'll become a nuisance.
Search for an iris with our plant finder
Where to see them
National Collections of Irises:
Mrs Murphy
Myddelton House Gardens
Bulls Cross
Enfield
Middlesex EN2 9HG
Tel: 01992 702200
Claire Austin Hardy Plants
The Stone House
Coppice Green Lane
Cramp Pool, Shifnal
Shropshire TF11 8PE
Tel: 01952 463700
Website: www.claireaustin-hardyplants.c...
JRL Carter
Rowden Gardens
Brentnor, Tavistock
Devon PL19 ONG
Tel: 01822 810275
Paul Harrigan, Head Gardener
Belsay Hall, Belsay
Newcastle upon Tyne
Northumberland NE20 ODX
Tel: 01661 881069
Richard Bisgrove
University of Reading
School of Plant Sciences
Whiteknights
PO Box 221, Reading
Berkshire RG6 6AS
Tel: 0118 378 8073
Website: www.rdg.ac.uk
Mr M Pharoah
Marwood Hill Gardens
Marwood, Barnstaple
Devon EX31 4EB
Tel: 01271 342528
Website: www.marwoodhillgarden.co.uk
KW Davis
Lingen Nursery
Lingen, Bucknell
Shropshire SY7 ODY
Tel: 01544 267720
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Some Iris' like compost but can grow in a lot of different soils. I have barren clay soil that I have been amending over the years but the iris' have made a great showing from day one.They are an easy flower to grow.
One thing to be concerned about is planting depth of the rhizome. The rhizome likes to breathe so don't plant it too deep. If you live in a warm climate then plant it with only a half inch to an inch of soil. If you live in a cooler climate plant it an inch or so deeper or mulch it for the winter months. Hope this helps.
Best tip for the Bearded Iris is... they like well drained soil and DO NOT plant them too deep or they will not bloom. Have the top of the rhizomes slightly above the soil.
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