Saw table question - removing the blade guard?
Question:I own a table saw and I need to cut quite thin stips of mdf (about 15mm wide). I have previously been adviced that the saw blade should be set so that it is just above the height of the material being cut. The problem I'm having is that to cut narrow stips of wood I obviously need the fence quite close to the blade and the blade cover above gets in the way. I can only get the fence in really close if I raise the blade height, which obviously raises the blade cover as well. But this now means the blade is well over the height of the material. My question is this, is it safe to remove the plastic blade guard when using the machine? What exactly is the point of the blade guard anyway apart from being a sort of safety feature to stop you getting hurt. If it is not safe to remove the cover, then is there anyway around this problem?
Answers:
NO NO NO, But Hell No Never remove the guard If you need it Moved for cuttin small stuff, Pull the guard all the way open use a piece of duct tape to hold the guard up when cutting your pieces then remove it when done, you still have a saw with a guard and can still do what you need to
i would first turn it on. Then after that, try to take off the blades when its running...HAHA
Your best solution is to remove the blade guard. The biggest function of the guard is as a safety feature, and to help prevent lawsuits to the company because someone cut their finger off on a running saw they didn't know was sharp and there was nothing there to protect them from doing that
You are correct that the guard is a safety feature and I believe is required on the saw when sold. It can (and in some cases MUST) be removed to do certain cuts such as yours. I removed mine and never put it back on. I use push rods any time my fingers might be near the blade. You must also realize it is not there should you reach across the table while it is running.
I have a messed up thumb from no blade guard
If you take it off, make some push sticks to push the material thru.
You can remove the blade guard.
It's one of those safety regulations that protect the mfg. from responsibility for injuries.
I never use it, but be extra careful. It is useful for long ripping jobs.
Yes, the saw blade should be barely above the material. This helps prevent kickback which can destroy the material.
Be sure to use a fine blade, not a rip one.
leave the cover on , raise the blade, i just saw a guy take his finger off at work about a month ago because he took off the guard,
Consider putting a narrow board against the fence perhaps five or six inches wide. Then put your mdf board against that narrow board, set the fence to rip your mdf board to it's appropriate width. Feed the scrap board through with each cut and you fingers will never be near the blade, nor will you have to remove the guard.
The blade guard is designed to prevent kickback. I personally have taken mine off but I have 40 years experience with a table saw. A simple solution to your dilemna is clamp a a 3/4 inch piece of 1X3 to the blade side of your rip fence and then set the dimension for your "thin" pieces. Make sure to use a push stick too.
The first thing I do with a new saw is remove the blade guard. Those things can cause more harm than good. They are there just to protect the saw manufacture from getting sued.
That's right. Some types of cutting need the guard removed. Be careful. Lots of woodworkers are missing fingers. I never use a guard, but I have been using table saws for many years. (I still have all my fingers)
believe me, im against beaureaucratic safety that inhbits doing the job in hand, sometimes there is more safety with no guards and a personal awareness that there is danger around cos your mind is more focussed and paying attention. On the other hand i was drinking in a bar in puerto vallarta, mexico and a girl nearby hand no fingers on one hand she cut them clean off whilst trainging to be a carpenter using a table saw with no guard, she said she didnt feel it at all, just saw her fingers fall off. take care whatever you do. if it feels dangerous, then it is, pay attention to what is going on and use push sticks to guide the work and keep your hands out of the way
There are some instances where you can't use the blade guard for datos and rabbits, etc. and I don't always use the blade guard, but I try to when ever possible. But instead of taking it off use a sacrificial wood fence attached to the metal fence. You won't have a problem with it in the way and maintain maximum safety. Make yourself some nice push sticks, you are more apt to use them if they are handy and not just some piece of scrap wood.
i just purchase one of those smaller 10" tablesaws. Being new, with the new fangled toys(guards) take some getting use to. I have been using my fathers much older saw without guards...so these things are...I'll give it a chance.
The blade guard made out of plastic is really for a visibility thing just in case the blade is out. Otherwise it directs the sawdust in one direction which helps. Still I can do without.
If you have the saw blade barely sticking out of the material you are about to cut, the motion of the blade will be more pushing toward you(and throwing sawdust that way as well) rather than cutting downward into the table(which comes with a higher blade). So I have been maxing it on my dad machine for years and been cutting cedar and pine strips halfxhalf inch by 5 feet. (For kites and things like that) So I am contemplating taking the stupid thing off.
With that being said, I first set the cover back, set the fence, and then lay the cover forward. It sits ontop of the fence.
Of the gizmos, I like the kickback hooks so the wood does not shoot back- wards.
But again do look at the action of the blade according to the piece that you are cutting...a short path thru the wood is the best (and that only matters at the cutting point. If the guard has to come off, it has to come off.
I use a push block when cutting thin strips of wood on the table saw. Actually, anything under 3" and I at least use a push stick.
Some of the guys at work used to razz me over this until one of them sawed part of his thumb off. Now they all use one.
To make one, cut about 7" off a piece of scrap 2-by-4. On a band saw make a 1/2" notch at the end of the piece about 3" along the edge of the 2-by-4.
Remove your guard and set your blade about 1/4" to 1/2" above the board you're cutting. Cut your strip but when get to the end of your piece set the notched end of your "push block" on your wood to push the strip the rest of the way through.
The blade will cut into the push block but as long as you have your hand on top of it your digits should be safe.
One way to cut thin strips and still have the fence further away from the blade is to secure a piece of wood between the fence and blade, a spacer. I would do something like this rather than removing the blade guard. Even being careful, accidents happen.
The first thing to leave my table saws is the blade guard, but you have to be careful when you use it.
I would not remove the blade guard. I would Cut the thin strips backwards.
If let say you need 1/2 inch strips and you original piece is 3 3/4 inches wide, set the rip fence so that you cut off a 1/2 inch.
You would set the fence so it cuts 3 1/4 inches including the width of the blade. Then if something goes wrong you have just lost some stock and not your fingers.
Secondly, in such a delicate cut I would set the blade height at 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch below the thickness of you stock and trim it with a utility knife IF needed. This way you won't have a ruff edge.
No other safe way to do this.
Leave it on there.
As a professional, I have not used a blade gaurd on a table saw. You should be aware that the blade gaurd can prevent 'kickback' materials from flying at you. With that said, be sure to use the following items; 1. safety glasses. 2. Push stick to feed the material through as the end nears the blade. 3. a second stick for down pressure to hold the stock on the table as your push stick feeds stock through the blade.
Smooth continuous feed rate works best, watch the fence and keep your stock snug to the fence to avoid binding.
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