How to properly install furring strips onto waist high cement walls for future drywall??
Question:I'm working on finishing my basement. First off my house is only a few years old and very dry. Most of my walls are framed in with 2x4's. However I also have a couple of walls that have 40 inch high cement walls. They protrude about 3.5 inches out past the regular wall. I purchased some 1x4's that I intend to attach to the cement and then cover them up with drywall. I have heard different takes on this. One is to use a powder actuator with cement nails to drive a nail through the wood and into the cement. Someone else told me you can just use liquid nails made for cement and wood. Are there any builders out there or anyone with experience in this area that can lend me some advice? Thanks so much!
Answers:
I am finishing my basement as well, but I didn't attach furring strips to the walls. I did attach wood to concrete on the floor though, and researched what you are now. I ended up buying a powder actuated nail gun from ACE hardware for around $50.00 (including all accessories).
I have read online that Liquid Nails construction adhesive would work in place of the gun though.
The best place I have found to get advice like this online is
www.diychatroom.com
Definetly worth checking out. Good luck on your project!
Nail gun, expensive to buy for one time, Home Depot rents them or for that matter alot of places. Your are right about powder actuator, find a friend who has carpentry expeirence.
this is not a big problem, you will be fine
liquid nails along with some concrete (cut) nails wouls be best - 2 or 3 nails per board.
In my basement finishing experience, I have found both solutions to be correct. If the wall is stand alone, wth no other way to even have minor support from a right angled wall, use the powder actuator or even drill the concrete and use mollys.
The liquid nail route is the best way, I've found. I've never seen it fail and it takes a lot less work. Some people I talk to say to double up on the firring strips if you use liquid nails, but I never have. It will hold dry wall or panelling nicely.
I would use tapcon screws, in conjunction with liquid nails. This would require a hammer drill. I would also use treated strips, if termites live in your locale. If you had used 2x4, you would have had enough room for electrical outlets.
I like the tap-cons ( Blue screws ) and liquid nails but make sure your concrete wall is plum and level or your walls will come out wavy compensate with wedges..
I have been doing this for 30 yrs and the easiest and best way is to drill a 3/16 or 5/16 in hole(depending on the nail size ) slide in a piece of concrete tie wire 3/4 of the nail length then simply drive in the nail. It will never let go and goes very quickly !! Just be sure the hole goes deeper than the nail and if you need it tighter just double up the wire !! If you like ,you can glue as well but I never have had to. P L premium is the best const adhesive there is.
Personally i would use "TAP CONS" and liquid nail. I would also suggest to use a foam for insualtion and also a vapor barrier to prevent moisture from contact of the drywall.
Glue is good, plus it has the added advantage in that it doesn't create a weeping point if you have a lot of hydrostatic pressure in the wall. Agree on making sure the wall is level. One other thing to keep in mind is that concrete emits water vapor (and yes, it will still emit water unless you've gone to the trouble of putting a full geowrap plus drainage system under the foundation, including the wall footers). Depending on your area, it can be a little, or a lot. Here in the Pacific Northwest, it is a lot. Putting a vapor barrier in isn't the best idea since the vapor will still come in, then condense, run down the vapor barrier and pool at the base and mold the bottom half. This is a nightmare and a very good source of business for us. Your best bet is to properly seal the concrete walls with a good Sodium Silicate concrete sealer (ala Kryton or W.E.T. Deepseal). Don't forget to seal the floor joint as well since that water will keep looking for someplace to go. PT lumber is also a good idea, though more expensive plus you have to be careful what fasteners you use.
Loc-Tite construction adhesive and Tap-Cons.
If you use the LIQUID NAIL please be sure to make your measurements accurate because the stuff is strong and will hold until the end of times. lol I've used it and then tried to take it off because I made a measuring mistake.
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