Whats the best method of securing floorboards to concrete?
Question:there was an area of my kitchen floor that used to be a fireplace (concreete plinthe) so there was no floorboards in the area. I managed to remove the concrete only to be faced with further concrete 15mm lower. I have decided to place floorboards over this concrete to match the surrounding floor (stained and varnished floorboards) however was wondering what the best method of fixing these floorboards was. The area has very difficult access as some of it is under my kitchen units however i'm only interested in the area of floorboards that will show in front of the kickboard. These will be stained and varnished to match the existing floor.
Answers:
I would glue battens down, Put a vapor barrier over them and then staple tounge and groove fllooring to the battens.
If you just glue it to the concretre, it will be vey difficult to replace later on. and you will get moisture damage from the concrete with a good chance at dry rot.
you can use no more nails make sure the floor is dry and free of dust and squirt no more nails on it then lay the floor boards the job will be a good one x kitti x
No more nails would be a bad idea. You must allow for some movement in the wood due to expansion and contraction.
You must ensure that you put a damp proof membrane down under the wood else you will have no protection against damp which will destroy the floor.
If the floor is level then you could just lay the boards over the top of this and glue them together tongue and groove style but I would think it might be better to lay battens down first and nail the boards to these as it would allow for air movement under the floor further combatting the damp.
Use a hardwood flooring adhesive
http://www.realoakfloors.co.uk/flooring_...
Given the size of the area and you only have 15mm depth to work with Id just Use no more nails
What you are looking at is creating a subfloor atop concrete. And with any subfloor, you need to place down joists. However, since these joist are sitting on top of concrete, they don't have to be any thicker than an inch to an inch-and-a-half thick. Using pressure-treated wood might also be a good idea.
Start by washing the concrete thoroughly; use bleach or TPF. This is to ensure that mould or some other growth won't develop under your floor.
Next, place down a vapour barrier. The plastic used to vapour barrier interior walls should be sufficient. Then layout your joists 16 inches on centre. Always layout the joists perpendicular to the longest dimension of the room. Level by inserting shims under the joists.
Attach the joists to the floor using an explosive actuated nailing tool. You can purchase a "ram-set" at most Hardware stores. It used blank .22 cartridges in a range of different power levels. I have alway found that level three works well in concrete. And use concrete nails (specially designed for the ram-set) that are around 3/4 of an inch longer than the thickness of the joists.
The tool is easy to operate. Simply insert the nail into the bottom chamber. Place the cartridge in the breach. Using the handle, push the chamber closed over the spot you wish to insert a nail. Then using a hammer, strike the top of the ram-set. I suggest you wear eye and ear protection.
After the joists are secure, place felt insulation between the joists. This will help keep the floor at room temperature. Then lay down another layer of vapour barrier over top of everything. This will help ensure that moisture is kept away from the wood and lessen the likelihood of rotting.
Finally, sheet the floor using 5/8 inch thick tongue-and-grove plywood or OSB. This will give you a nice, level and secure base in which to attach your floor boards.
A good quality construction adhesive that is designed to stick wood to concrete.
all you need is superglue, that shoud dae the job
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