Is there an easy way to put linoleum tile around a toilet without removing the toilet?
Question:I have to put the tile down, but I don't want to remove the toilet, and I am trying to cut the tile so that it will go around the toilet without looking like I butchered it. Or is there a product (molding?) that I can buy to go around the edges?
Answers:
If you absolutely can't remove the toilet, you can create a stencil out of a paper bag and carefully cut to shape. And then tape little pieces together to form the perfect stencil. Leave little to no gap so when you caulk it, it looks neat.
If the toilet is the traditional style, you can remove it by unbolting the two bolts and the water supply line. It lifts right up. Then you can make a rougher cut, replace the wax seal, and bolt it back up. This is the only way to get a true professional appearance and you won't need caulk. Removing a toilet only takes five minutes so don't let it intimidate you.
As far as I know, there's no easy way to do what you would like to do. The toilet is usually removed first, then the tile laid down. If you do go that route, one recommendation: buy yourself a new wax ring to go around the hole in the floor that the toilet seats to. Once you have removed the toilet, frequently the wax ring will get distorted and you'll need a new one. Good luck.
i've run into that situation before...if you have a toilet thats so old your scared if you look at it funny it will leak, much less taking it out...
caulk is the only way I know to cover it up.if using sheet linoleum buy you a hawk billed knife and just cut as close as you can then cover edge with caulk...it won't look perfect but not terrible...if square vinyl tiles measure each block to toilet individually allowing some extra for the curves then heat the tile and cut to fit then cover with the caulk..
You said tile, so I assume you mean 12x12 place and press tile.
I'll try to explain how to mark them if I can. Get yourself a compass. The kind kids use in school for drawing circles. Open the compass up about 1 1/2 inches. Lay your tile on the floor as close to the toilet as possible. Let it lay on top of the one it will butt up against and keep the side edges flush to the one it will butt up against. Now take the compass and run the metal point along the contour of the toilet and let the pencil draw the contour onto the tile. Cut the contour side of the tile with strong scissors or carefully with tin snips. After you get the contour cut, lay the tile up against the toilet and on top of the one it will butt up against. Now slide the tile about 1/8 of an inch to the side and mark where the edge of the tile under it is. Cut the tile off straight on that mark and it will fit like a glove. You will still want to caulk around the toilet.
If you are using patterned tile it gets a little trickier, but the same concept. Measure from the edge of the next tile to the closest point on the contour of the toilet. Measure from the edge of the tile you will be cutting ( the edge that will butt up against the other tile)and put a mark all the way across the tile lightly with pencil. Now lay the tile ontop of the one it will butt up against, keeping the sides flush with the one underneath, slide it forward until it touches the toilet. Open the compass up, so that the metal point is against the toilet and the pencil point is on the line you marked on the tile. Trace the contour first to one side and then to the other side. Cut the contour and once again it will fit like a glove.
Put some aluminum foil around the toilet pushing it against the toilet to get a pattern, then put the pattern on the tile and cut it to fit. You will have to adjust the rest of the tiles to meet the square edges of the toilet tile to make it look okay. I did it so it can be done, it just takes a little time and patience.
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