How to lay a new concrete floor?
Question:im attempting to have a go at laying a concrete floor in my shed 10ft/5ft what materials should i use and preperations for this job
Answers:
OK, sit back and get a drink...
10'x5'x0.3'= 16.5cu ft of concrete= .611 cu yd (1 cu yd = 27 cu ft (3x3x3=length x width x depth)
If you're going to mix it by hand have a couple of friends to help.. Mix it to the consistency of thick mud and do it on a day when its not rainy or too sunny.. This is too little for most commercial operations to want to deal with without making it cost prohibitive for you.. but it will save you a lot of effort.
Tools:
-Shovels at least two (for
-Hoe's (at least two for mixing and moving the concrete) [For all those now laughing.. remember this is a garden implement not “another helper”]
-String
-Line level (looks like a bubble in a tube with 2 small hooks to put it on the line.
Maybe a 3- 4 foot regular level
-Wheelbarrow or two if you have enough people to man them
hose with an adjustable flow device on the end
-Concrete trowels [flat/finishing, edger, and expansion line]
-2-4" of gravel is a good underlayment. This is most necessary where there are large variations in soil heave due to temp or moisture content.
-Reinforcement bar (rebar) or galvanized "fencing" with 1x2 rectangles. The "fencing" is made in sheets and rolls. The stuff for concrete is a little heavier than the fencing but that gives you the idea If it is not galvanized or otherwise treated don't bother as the concrete will rust it and make it worthless in a few years. If this is not going to be bearing vehicles and is just for puttering or hobying then this stuff is fine.. The key is you want to build a "matrix" between the aggregate and the metal that strengthen it to keep it from cracking..
-Rent a "bull float" to smooth the large surface to get a couple of 2 x 4's studs to run along the frame to smooth the concrete..
-Old metal hangers cut into 6-8" strips
-"expansion joint" material
-Rubber boots or shoes that will be sacrificed
-At least 2 friends
and
-refreshments
I think that is everything
You will need to level or at least smooth and frame the area. The top of the frame MUST be level across the length and width or your building will slope and cause you all kinds of trouble..
You can use 2 by 4 studs as the edging Or strips of plywood or masonite.. 1/2 inch masonite is generally pretty cheap compared to plywood... if the lot is not level it is nice because you can cut the strips.
If the soil is prone to heaving sue to freezing or water absorption then you need to dig down an put in the gravel. If not a big issue then skip it.
If you are in a hot area or one prone to rain, or you think you will just get tired, you may want to make this two 5x5 slabs by putting a framing member down the middle. The framing members are genrally held up by wooden stakes.
With the foundation space prepared and frame up use the line level to ensure each corner is level. (You can also use a long regular level to check the center of the foundation space.)
Place the rebar or the galvanized fencing in the foundation. Over lap the ends 8-12 inches and use wire to bind the pieces. I should sit off of the ground as much as possible so it remains inside the concrete. The rebar should be bent at the ends so when it is laid in a grid pattern and tied it holds itself up and the fence would need to have pieces of metal hanger tied around it and staked into the ground to keep it off the ground and from coiling up on you..
You guys are ready to start mixing and pouring..
Start at one end and work your way down.
Use the 2x4 stud to level and settle the concrete by running it along the top of the frame. This will help you find low and high spots. If it gets stopped on a high spot, "jiggle it so it will settle the high spot. Low spots require a shovel of concrete and another run of the board.
This keeps going until one side or the whole thing is done. If you break it in two secitons wait for at least one day before doing the next side so you dont damage the setting concrete..
If it starts drying you can LIGHTLY spray water over it to keep it from setting too fast.
The expansion joing comes when the second part is ready to be done.. Remove the piece of the frame down the middle placing the expansion joint against the existing concrete.. You will probably have to hold it in plce for the first wheelbarrow of concrete then that piece will stay in place.
If you do it in one piece you will probably want to make yourself a ramp to get the weelbarrow in and out to deliver the cocrete more easily.
The hand trowel will help onthe small spots and the others are for the edges and crack lines.. that should run in a cross making the surface in 4 quadrants.
I think that covers it..
You should take it to dinner first
get a builder in and then you can stop worrying that you have it wrong
put your shed on paving slabs,they do the job & its a lot less hassle.
well there is 81 square feet in a cubic card, considering you pour 4 inches,, you will need some rolled rebar installed or the concrete will crack, and if you are mixing it yourself, you better have friends over to help cux it is a beotch to do alone,
I use a long straight 2x4 to level, you also need to buy wood for a form too, they sell cheapo wood stakes to hold them square,, make sure your form is really square or you will have a hell of a mess trying to put up the shed,
I saw my neighbor do it
and they tore the entire floor out. then they took like 15 bags of concrete but you should ask an expert on how many bags you should need so you wont buy to many or to little. Then. i would say use a loong pole to help smooth the concrete out and never do it when the sun is out or else it would dry up to easily. Then use water, and pour the concrete in and smooth it out and repeat until you covered everything :)
If your shed is 10x5 you will need about 3/4 of a yard of concrete for a 4" thick floor, you can have it delivered from the quarry which wil cost you about 350 for the mix plus delivery plus short load fee or mix it from bags, you will need about 40 sixty pound bags, form up the floor out of 2x4's making two boxes both 5x5, this way you can use the bags and pour one half at a time, take your concrete mix dump them on the ground in the form dry, get almost the entire form filled 7/8 of the way then start adding water mix with a hoe or a rake until you get a plastic like consitency, dump in more dry and add water until you have the form a little over full, take a 2x4 crown up (bowed side up) that is long enough to reach the from board of each side, run the baord across the top moving it side to side try to keep a little bit of the mix in front of your screed board at all times if you get a hole or low spot just throw some concret in that spot and go back over it. Once you have done this have a wide plank like a 2x12 that can preferrably reach to the other side of the form from where you are now standing lay this board on your forms, get a good wood float and start to trwoel your concrete always keep your leading edge (direction you are moving float in) raised slightly up, move float in half circles overlapping each seam trying to work to the edge. Once you have done this to the entire slabe repeat on the other side, remove the wood board in the center if you want and replace with a fiber or pvc joint you can find at home depot. You will know when you are floating the concrete correctly it will start to pull the cream up to the surface giving it a nicer appreance, if you you want it smooth use a steel or mag trowel. But always rember to wet your float before you start, and wash often during the process, Do not pour on a very hot day or you will run out of time to work it out. don't let anyone scare you about concrete, take the right steps and it will be hard work that was well worth it, or if you are in NJ call us and we will do it for 900.
You know,
If you don't know anything about it, make a friend that does.
Trust me. It does take a little experience with the knowledge to make it look good and be a good job.
Your question tells everyone one this forum, that you cannot do the job.
I labored six months for a construction company that did mostly concrete work.
It's work! And it's a skill the form up properly, and pour and finish the concrete.
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