When trying to buld a little house what to you use to make the walls connect at the corners?
Question:I think i Know what it is , it is some sort of long l shaped thing but I am not sure? Please help me!
Answers:
answers 1 thru 5 are all wrong.
the top of the wall consists of two 2x4s one runs the length of the wall plus the overlap of the side walls. the other two top pieces run short to allow for the uppers to tie it together.
How about a nail or two?
It's called a "California" It's (2) 2x4's nailed together that look like a ( L ) they tie both walls together. It would be very difficult to explain. You have the idea..it does look like an ( L )
Hammer it together and flip it around and hold up to where both walls meet. You will figure it out. Make sure you allow enough wood on the top and bottom plate to tie them together.
** ARE U TALKING ABOUT CORNER BEED FOR THE DRY WALL?? ** THE METAL GOES ON THE OUTSIDE CORNERS AND YOU USE PAPER DRYWALL TAPE FOR THE INSIDE CORNERS. FOLD THE PAPER IN HALF..CUT TO LENGTH. FLOAT DURABOND IN THE CORNERS AND INCERT THE TAPE IN THE CORNER AND RUN THE KNIFE UP AND DOWN BOTH SIDES. SKIM COAT THE TOP WITH DURA BOND AND PULL YOUR EDGES TIGHT. yOU DON'T WANT TO HAVE A MOUND OF MUD TO SAND. FINISH COAT THE NEXT 2 COATS WITH EASY SAND. GOOD LUCK
Go and look at metal brackets and you will see what you need--Home Depot or Lowe's or a local store.
What you want to do is nail 2 2x4 together with a few small scraps of 2x4's between them. for a standard 8' wall use 4 or 5 5" pieces. making the corner on one side larger than the other. The other wall end should be just a 2x4. (when building i always make the right end of the wall the double stud) Nail or screw the single 2x4 into the bigger one you made. This way not only does this add to the strength of your corner it also gives you a nailer for interior drywall or wall board you hang later.
Hope this helps and wasn't too confusing.
you want to cut a 2x4 in one foot pieces about three of them per corner
take a 2x4 and lay on floor one foot piece at the top one in the middle and one at the bottom
nail in place
place another full lenght 2x4 on top of this and flush the ends and nail inplace
now roll the pack so you are looking at the short pieces,
Place a full stud on the edge of the short pieces and a full stud
and nail
now you have a corner pac
if you use 95 and 3/8's jack studs put a top plate and a sole plate your height of the wall will be 8 ft
make four five of these pac according to the numebr of corners
nail these to your bottom plate( sole ) now slide the other sole plate under the intersectiong wall . have fun
Its called a carpenter or at the very least a handyman (or handywoman.)
Sounds like you're talking about an INSIDE corner. If the wall material is plasterboard, run a thin coat of "mud" from top to bottom with a 4" trowel (looks like a scraper). Do this on both surfaces.
Now apply fiberglass seaming tape so that 1/2 of the tape is on one wall, and the other half on the other wall. That would be about an inch of tape on each wall, top to bottom.
Use your trowel to press the tape into the coating of mud -both sides. A smooth stroke from top to bottom. Now get some more mud on the end of your trowel and run it down ONE wall only -THIN is good. Some of the mud will squeeze out and pile up on the other wall. Put the front edge of the trowel in the corner and pull away from the corner -on the wall that you've not yet put the extra coat on. Keep the handle low to the wall and apply some pressure as you do this to feather out the mud. You're doing a 4" section at a time, top to bottom.
With the corner dressed up pretty neatly, let this dry before doing the same thing on the other wall -its nearly impossible to do both side when they are both wet with mud. There is a v-shaped tool that's supposed to do this in one operation -but they're useless.
That was platerboard. If you've got paneling, you can use a piece of concave "reverse" quarter-round to fill the gap BUT beware of how this strip will join any molding running along the bottom or bottom. Otherwise, the supply store may have a section of plastic channel which fits onto the edge of each section of paneling.
A work-around to this is to start your paneling FROM the corners so can get the vertical edges to butt up against each other tightly and eliminate any trim piece completely but at some point you're going to have to cut and fit something somewhere.
If you're talking about the framing (stud work) then your corners are built up as described elsewhere in other answers. Basically, 2 two by fours separated by pieces of 2 by four, then a 2 by 4 nailed to that with the flat, so the wide side will face the studs running to it.
Hope this helps.
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