Cement grout between patio slabs?
Question:The 'grout ' between patio slabs in the back garden is mostly earth now and is constantly attracting weeds. I want to rake it out and replace it with a cement but what mixture is best for this purpose. Any good advice appreciated.
Thanks
Answers:
Choose a sanded grout, colored to complement the flagstone. For quick and easy grout application, use a masonry bag to get the grout into the nooks and crannies between the flagstones. Spread the grout into the joints with a trowel, and sponge off any excess. Let it set for 24 hours. Use as dry as possible..
Must be a dry mixture of sand and cement - do not add water.
With all due respect NO "grout" at this point will hold up, and very likely answer number one has that notion? The issue is that Unless the pavers/slabs happen to be on an already solid surface, IE: a poured concrete base,,,they are subject to FLEX.
I install and remediate thousands of sq. ft. of tile, very often those in a similar situation to what you describe, with grout constantly cracking, crumbling, and chipping out.
Even the dry mix will at some point get WET, and set up, as though you mixed and poured it, but it won't remain solid in the paver joints forever. The better solution might be to remove the pavers, pour a slab and reset them.
Steven Wolf
I would suggest getting some "saltillo" tile grout. It is courser than regular grout and it can be hydrated in place if done carefully.
how about saving time and money and just use sand...place a little weed killer on the top so it soaks in
Problem here is when you use pressure washer, blasts the grout out.
a roughie toughy mix, Sharp Sand 3, Cement 1, but your water.actually 50% Unibond (building adhesive in wickes) To get it in easily, make up a board... 2 pieces hardboard width of slab X 12 inches, some battening (2 X1 maybe about 24 inches long) put battens down, lay Hardboard over with a gap of about half an inch between the long sides, nail the board to the batten,. Turn this over, and place over the grout slot, and you can use this as a board for your cement mix, slide into the grout slot, tamp in.. move on to next. Stops marking the slabs. I found a strip in one long edge good, prevents the cement getting off the board. When you lay board on patio slabs, should be shiney side up. Using this mix it sticks like s**t to a blanket!!
i always use a 4 sand to 1 cement mix , i find it best used wet and left a few minuites then sponge off access from joints and slab , using a dry mix wont binde with the slab very well and will crack alowing weeds to reapear
I would put some talc powder onto the patio slabs and then pour in a mixture of cement sand 1:t 1 mix, or else I would dry grout the mixture in and then allow it to absorb moisture from the groud, the seconf method is cleaner and faster
The point about a very weak sand:cement mix is that it's easy to pull weeds from. When gaps appear in it you just tip a bit more in and brush away the excess.
As the expert said, unless the slabs are absolutely solid you will get cracks - then weeds.
So, if you're going to get weeds anyway, make them easy to deal with.
I have just had a new patio laid and the grouting looks good in that it is a bit "gravelly" and not smooth so it looks rather rustic. The landscaper assures me that it will be fine but it just seems that there might just be too much sand in there.
It has been done a few weeks now and the top surface has brushed off a little but then it does seem OK.
Is this the norm or should I get him back and get very smooth grouting.
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