I need information on how to put up metal roofing.?
Question:I need to replace the old tar roof over my garage. Corrugated metal looks like it would be the most straight-forward to do myself. I can't find any books on how to do it and I'm sure there are special things to look for, keep in mind, etc. I appreciate learning from your experiences. Thanks
Answers:
Corrugated metal is for siding only. You need a ribbed steel roofing material.
Depending upon the size, the sheets can get rather heavy quickly and the edges are sharp. You will need at least one person to help, two is better.
Make sure you get the first piece straight, it is difficult to straighten as you go and you will be able to see it along the eave (bottom edge) of the roof as the pieces will be slightly staggered.
Special screws with neopreme washers are the best fastener to use. 1 1/2 is good, unless you add insulation in which case you would need to add that thickness to the length of the screw. Place screws beside the rib, not on top of the rib. If you do use nails, they are placed on top of the rib.
See http://www.mtlsales.com/products/classic... (note that this is a pdf file, may take a few minutes to load). This has some detailed drawings and shows the different trim pieces that are available. It is for a specific manufacturer, but most have similar products.
Good luck!
most importantly u need a tar paper under the iron to run off condensation that gathers. u need flashings over the ends
and need to allow enough length to over lap into guttering
most places will make it to measure so u dont have to cut it it overlaps only in one direction and has special nails that u can buy to suit the material some metals react with each other,dont leave iron filings on roof after u have finished as they can rust esp if u drill holes b4 nailing
As long as the length of the material your using is appropriate i.e. top edge of the metal roofing is within two inches of the peak of the roof and the bottom edge is approx. two or more inches past the fascia, sounds as if your heading in the right direction. Keep in mind when ordering your material, the width of the ridge cap you'll need to cover the top edge of the metal roofing. When your doing the installation, it may be best to position the top edge of your material where you know the ridge cap will overlap it. Once you've determined the first sheets position, you can then run a string line along the bottom edge to keep the sheets square as you work down one side of the roof. Take note that each sheet should be overlapped away from the weather side, for instance if it's typical in your area the weather comes from the east, overlap to the west. This will keep the water from blowing under the sheets.
Tin or Metal roofs are dependent on every roofing job. Preparation is the base of any good roof. Inspect the wood or whatever is there now, look for rotting,insects and mistakes. One thing that might work against you is the tear off and prep for Tin. It is also a noisy noisy in wind and rain.Lousy in Hurricane areas, it separates and goes damaging other stuff.
It has been used for a hundred years or so, so it works, like anything about 15 years.
I did a few roofs in my life, prolly do a few more, I really liked that Cold Seal stuff that is applied in rolls with a Hot Torch., It lasts a long time, is watertight for certain, requires about 30mins of training to apply it.
I think it is also cheaper per SqFt to apply. Requires no care or maintenance. I did a church roof with that stuff and it rode through Dennis,Ivan,Katrina and about 8 others after Opal.
We replaced a metal one that blew off with that Cold Seal stuff. Ok, first off Cool Seal is like roofing tar, but requires little or no heat to apply. That roll roofing requires a Propane Torch with a Rosebud tip to pre-heat the bottom as it is rolled on to the prepped surface.
Any roof is a two man job, two makes it easier, one to roll it one to heat it. Asbestos Gloves are like a must, eye protection and standard safety rules apply in any job.
If you go metal, same thing, prep the surface, inspect it, Felt tar and let stand for a day, apply Metal from top to bottom, watch the nail lines and stay on the studs.
Maybe that is another reason I suggest the Roll Roofing, no nails needed, putting more holes in any roof only increases the chance of a leak in the future.
It aint exactly rocket science, but it takes a good pre plan and follow all the steps, any skimping only costs you on the next rain or high wind.
I will leave the research up to you, you can look at Lowes,HomeDepot or call your local Hardware Supplier and ask them, also look at the other roofs around town, how many are metal and how many are tar, then how long have they lasted.
You left out alotta data, is it a Pitched Roof? Gabled? Flat? Cornices? Eaves? If it is a pitched roof, [numbers go here]
33.7 or a 8/12 is kinda standard, lotsa and stuff there that fluctuates by area or zone and year of construction.
http://roofgenius.com/roof-pitch-degrees...
http://roofgenius.com/roof-pitch-example...
Hope that helps, good luck and be very careful.
I have put on many of metal roofs before and you dont want to use corrigated tin, the stuff will leak like a waterfall after a year providing you don't get a hail storm. Your best bet is to use shingles they are tougher and will outlast the tin, not to mention that they are covered with a manufacturers warrenty for at least 25 years if the shingle breaks down before that under normal conditions you will get a new roof.
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