How do I remove construction cement/glue?
Question:I removed ceiling tiles and found beautiful wood slats in "this old house." The tiles were held in place by staples and wads of thick glue. I want the ceiling back to original.
Answers:
A mild solution of hydrochoric acid!
Be careful! Use gloves when applying!
Good luck!
Goo off or Goo Gone maybe.
wd-40 or maybe some olive oil..
Depends what type of glue. If it is a rubber base glue lacquer thinner may do the trick. I would suggest scraping a sample and taking it to your hardawre store and have them look at it and I'm sure they can come up with a solution.
Good luck
Some older adhesive contained asbestos. I don't know if that included ceiling tile adhesive. Check before you proceed.
Scrape. Invest a few bucks in several types of hand srapers and get ready for some fun. After you remove majority of the old adhesive by scraping, the fun really begins.Sand! yeah! Sanding Pary! Invite your friends (or enemies?) and sand the hell out of the (tounge and groove?) slats. Finish with a clean Lacquer thinner wash down...allow to dry for 24 hours...now finish with any number of commercial stains or finishes. Good Luck...wear glasses.
Your basic 10 six-pack problem.
Use a heat gun, scrapers and elbow grease.
But FIRST, try using a 2-3" masonry or "cold" chisel and hammer. Put the edge of the chisel up against the blob and bearly flush to the ceiling. Apply a quick, sharp WHACK with a hammer -and see if that puppy pops off -most of it, anyway. The reason for the masonry chisel is that it is thick enough so as not to dig into the wood and wide enough to apply the striking force of the hammer blow way into the target blob.
No good?
Hit the glue blobs a heat gun to soften them. Play the nozzle back and forth so as not to burn the wood, but there might be some mild scorching (which can be sanded out later). As you heat the old glue it will either soften so you can get the scraper blade under it to lift/scrape it away OR -it will get really hard and brittle, in which case jabbing with the scraper at a low angle (almost level to the ceiling) should cause chunks to break away. Experiment in one of those "inconspicuous places."
Either way, there will probably be a STAIN left behind. If you want to leave the wood "natural," then cover the stain with clear spray lacquer, let dry, and sand the spot (hand held orbital sander, medium grit sand paper). You'd be amazed how the lacquer will pull the stain to the top -it sands off as a sort of gray ash. But, you'll also need to sand the entire surface to get everything in balance with the new wood exposed where the glue stain was.
If that's not really satisfactory -there is still some staining or a halo effect on the outer edge of the stain, then consider staining the entire ceiling with a color that is just slightly LIGHTER than the stain. The stains will then take on the appearance of knots and other natural features of the wood. Then again -there's always paint, but apply Kilz to the stains first, and test-paint the area.
By the way, the recommendation of using chemicals is "iffy," because, while they may loosen the globs, they may also at the same time make them stain the wood.
This is a do-able project -and you'll be muscled up when you're finished!
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