Can i lay a patio using just a sand bed?how?
Question:im laying a patio 16/16ft can i use only sand as a bed and how much,any help on this would be of great help
Answers:
Lay the flags on 35 to 50mm bed of sharpe sand. Any edging should be bedded in 6 parts sharpe sand with 1 part cement and a bit of water, make it quite dry, not too wet.
You would only put hardcore under the sharpe sand if driving a vehicle onto them.
Added : As for someone who lays flags for a living, some thicko gives the thumbs down. That's why their flags are all over the place.
I laid a patio of slabs many years ago and it`s still there and hasn`t moved. I leveled out the soil ,removing all the stones etc,then layed about a 1 and half inch layer of sand using a spirit level on a plank to get e decent surface to work with then just layed the slabs on top,tamping down with a plastic hammer and using the spirit level again.when you have done this you can sprinkle over with sand or a sand cement mixture and use a broom to swep the mixture into the gaps between the slabs,If you find a slab has moved or is not level,remove it and pack with more sand.It will all take a time to do but you will get good results if you work slowly and methodically.
Home Depot and Loews's both have books on laying pavers on a sand bed.
That's how it is done. Lay a 4-6 inch bed of sand, screed it flat and level, tamp it down well, and lay the pavers. I would recomend a layer of weed block fabric under the sand.
Phil has offered a great answer. I have installed a few patios and pavers in my day and I prefer crushed lime rock, for a slightly more stable bed. Highway depts. often use it as a base for whatever other paving material will go over it.
Certainly leveling and compacting are the way to proceed, and filling the joints. I live in Florida, and the soil in general isn't anything near "hardpack" and in essence is "Dirty Sand"
Depending on seasonal conditions (Here a lot of rain) erosion is a factor in the patio remaining stable at it's base. Certainly if one is pouring a slab, all this is a moot point.
I find that even over one season, pavers laid on sand, often shift.
Steven Wolf
an inch is sufficient,level it and spray water on it to moisten it and make it compactable and then lay the blocks.afterwards put dry sand ontop of the blocks and sweep sand into the cracks between the blocks as filler. Nothing moves. Just like the city does it.
It really depends on what the soil is like where you want to put the patio. If it's sandy and well drained you could probably use just sand, but if there is poor drainage and frost can be expected you will need more. See the article at the link for an excellent overview of a sure approach. One factor you WILL need to take into account is how the patio will impact on drainage and plan accordingly
You can only if the sand is concealed on all edges, your better off using the very tiny gravel, there called otts. Layout your area with spray paint, dig out the area if it has grass, lay stone or sand down, approx. 2-3 ", if using sand I would recommend building a pressure treated 2 x 4 enclosure,pack it down with a roller, if you don't have a roller wet it down. Get a 4 foot straight piece of wood to use as a screed to give you a level surface then you can start laying the pavers, tap them in lightly with a rubber mallet. You can sprinkler sand on top after your done to fill the little voids. Good luck
None of these answers actually describe the professional method of laying pavers. One very important factor that you left out of your question and no one else has mentioned is the climate you live in. I'll assume it's a climate that has the potential of freezing and there's only one method of paver laying that can withstand freeze thaw with any acceptable success.
1. Excavate the patio area 9" or so below the planned height of the patio.
2. Add a minimum of 6" of crushed limestone or road base gravel. Rake out smooth and flat. Compact base material with no less than a gas powered plate compactor. Compactor can be rented at most rental stores for no more than 75.00/day.
3. Next add 1" of sand to the patio area and screed it off perfectly flat and smooth with a 2x4. String lines and a $2.00 line level can be used to assure a level setting surface for a level finished product.
4. Set your pavers starting on one edge and do not walk on screeded sand. Work out from the edge by kneeling on a piece of plywood over the pavers to help dispurse your weight over many paver so you dont sink any. Just set the pavers in DONT PRESS OR POUND THEM.
5. Install plastic paver edge holder (comes in 8' lengths available anywhere you get pavers)
6. When the entire patio is set and given the size you stated spread 3 50# bags of silica sand over the entire patio sweeping and working it into the cracks with a push broom.
7. Gently set the plate compactor on the pavers and make one pass over the entire patio making sure not to over compact any one area.
8. Sweep in all the remaining silica sand you can and then sweep off the excess.
9. Sweep in a bag or so of fresh silica sand once a year every year thereafter.
Make the best of your biggest asset, your home, by taking the time and extra few dollars to do this right. I've torn out 100's of "Joe Homeowner" paver patios and replaced them because they just look terrible when they're not nice, tight, and level.
Go back through these questions and you will find one re letting a granny tile a roof - good advice. Grannies are super at slab laying but watch out for them spitting baccy juice on them as it will cause staining. If by some foul chance the granny you are using expires, rake out a trench and gently tip her in, don't be rough, after all she is someones mother and deserves a bit of respect. Later when you are enjoying a moonlit feast on your new patio remember to raise a glass to Granny. She is supporting you. Good luck with the project.
More Related Questions & Answers...