Wiring/splicing : how to test a 'wire-nut' connection?
Question:Spliced a 220 volt to an additional length of 2-#6 awg to move a oven/range outlet location.
I replaced the outlet box with a more proper junction box and spliced the cable using the wire nuts suited for #6 capacity load.
Since the old cable was aluminum I used the goop on the wires to prevent oxidation, loosening.
I tightened the 'wire-nuts' torqued to hand tight.
Does the paper sheath around the straight copper ground wire need to be removed from the 2-#6 type cable?
I'm just being cautious everything sounds peachy.
Should I have turned the breaker off before doing this rewiring project? ;) JUST KIDDING!
But does there seem to be anything I've skipped in this process?
Not to take work from electricians but... thanks!
DIYorDIE!!LOL
Answers:
You are fine forever...Good job using the No-Alox. Also, using plies on a wirenut is NOT good electrical practice. You will rip the spring loose from the inside of the wirenut, then the cap will fall off, then...short to ground. We fire jacklegs for that here in Carolina...
Unless you are using the broiler, and all 4 stove elements on full gag, all at one time, i wouldn't worry about your connection. It will outlast the range...
It sounds like you did things right. I would turn the power off, (not kidding) then using a pair of pliers, give the wire nut a little more torque. Aluminum is notorious for compressing. Nasty stuff for wire.
Make sure that the junction box remains accessible.
be careful over tightening the aluminum wiring. It'll snap right off.
Although you were wise to use the noalox, or antioxidant, I would ratehr suggest that you get the proper gauge of wire in copper and rewire the entire circuit. The reason that I say that is that your oven is a high resistance circuit and aluminum does not like high resistance. With high resistance on aluminum, the aluminum wire will start "walking" or moving under the pressure and will eventually burn out the connection. If you have to leave it aluminum, don't use a wire nut, but get a split nut from an electrical supply, use teh same goop on it, then get two wrenches for the way that you have to screw the split bolt to the nut, tighten the thing down as tight as humanly possible, the wrap it with a special tape that the electrical supply will also have. It is not the standard electrical tape, but a stretchable tape and you wrap it tight at least 3 or a little more inches on both sides of the nut. This will insulate the connection so that it can't be shorted out at all. Mine had the same aluminum connection and when I replaced the stove, which was hard wired to the stove, I just replaced the whole wire. Normally the box is not too far away fromthe stove because it needs to be as close to it to reduce resistance.
To test what you have done, you can take a cheap volt meter from Radio shack, set it on the right settings for measuring voltage on 220, and if the needle goes to 220 + or - a bit, you are fine for the time being.
i usually go one step further and use electrical tape as well. tape from the top of the wire nut down over the end, go over the wires and back up to the top of the wire nut. now, don't go crazy with the tape. just a few wraps around will do the trick. what you are doing is making sure that if the wire nut does get loose, which in time it will from the heat-cold-heat cycle of power going through the wires, that the wire nut will not fall off since it is taped to the wires. and your connection, barring any movement of the wires will last your life time. thanks for being safety conscious. i see too many nightmares in my trade.
i would fire the nuts that use pliers on wirenuts. if u need to use pliers then get a wire splice connector. they screw/bolt together. i get a kick outa hearing the alum wire horror stories. 90% of entrance cables are alum.
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