How do you patch drywall holes with puddy? the holes are 3 to 4 inches in diameter.?
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Patching holes are easy,depending on wether the walls are smooth or texture,because i dont know which, I'll give answers to both.1st cut your drywall to squares. this makes it easier to make a tight patch. The tighter the joints means less chance of blisters or humping. 2nd you need to screw your new drywall to backing, for this use scrap wood ( dont use any thing less then a 1x2 because screws will crack the wood). The backing needs to be at least 2 inches above and below exsisting drywall . Put inch and a qaurter screws 1 inch above and below the hole, fastining the backing to the exsisting wall. Screw on new drywall. Now for the fun part. Use mesh tape, paper tape causes humping if you are a beginer. Prefill cracks by applying mud and wiping it tight. It should not take to long to tack up. Using a 10 inch knife, apply mud. Knife technic is simple, the closer the handle is to the wall helps you float, the farther the handle is away takes mud off. To prevent humping apply mud around outside of tape and inside. This will make the patch more flat. Be genorous because you can always sand. Sanding between coats makes for better preperation. For the second coat not as much mud is needed. Sand again. If it is a smooth wall put a third coat on and pull tight. This takes out pock marks and makes for a better patch. If the wall is texture, mask off anything you do not want over spray on. Most textures are orange peel or knock down. Use a spray can found in most paint sections of a hardware store. Hold can 12 to 18 inches from the wall and spray in circles. The spray comes out rapidly so do not hold the can in one spot to long because this will cause it to be blochy. If knock down, use a 10 inch knife and very lightly drag across the patch using the floating technic. Materials needed are; scrap sheet rock(DO NOT USE METAL PATCHES FOUND IN HARDWARE STORE, TO HARD TO FLOAT OUT), all purpose joint compound, mesh tape, pan, 6 inch knife, and a 10 inch knife. Happy taping!
you can buy a tape that looks like a sreen and puddy over it this tape alows the puddy to sit up and dry in place or i have seen the ghetto way when you take and fill the hole with news paper and then puddy over it your pick and good luck
You need mesh tape to cover the hole. The easiest thing would be to buy a repair kit. First you tape the mesh over the hole. Then putty over mesh. Use as little putty as possible, but still cover so you can no longer see the mesh. Once it dries sand it smooth. For larger holes a thin sheet of metal is often used.
The easy way is to put a small grid wire mesh behind it. If you do not have access to the back of the opening, then the way to hold the wire mesh in place is to make a small hook using wires or thread. So you can hook through the wire grid and place your puddy. The puddy should be relatively dry for it to remain on the wire mesh. You can use several hooks, or use several thread lines to tie onto the wire, and anchor them around the opening. I think you get the idea. Hope this helps.
The easiest way is to put some thing in the hole for a backing for the mud to stick to.
Get a small piece of wood about 1/2" narrower than the hole and about 4" longer. Run a long screw into the center of it to use temporarily as a handle.
Then run a two #6 or 8 screws (1" to 1 1/2" long) about 2" apart into the sheetrock about an inch below the hole and two more an inch above it but just get them started good.
Now stick one end of the wood into the hole and work it around until you get the whole thing in to it. Get it situated to where you can get the screws to go into the wood and tighten them put until there is about 1/4" space between the wood and the back of the drywall (sheetrock).
Now take the mud (putty) and pack it around the edges of the hole and then tighten the screws up squeezing most of the mud out. Let it dry for a day or so and then pack the hole with mud. It will want to sag but don't worry about it. Let it dry for a day or so and then sand anything down that sticks out further than flush with the face of the drywall. You will need to do this 2 or 3 times before you ever get the hole finished.
The mud will crack as it is drying on the first and maybe the second pass, so when you come back for the next pass, pack the mud into the cracks before trying to finish filling them.
Take the screw out of the center of the wood before the last coat of mud. A light sanding on the last coat should be all that is needed.
Good luck.
Dennis
Listen to dennis_phillips_7. His remedy is the pro's way.
I haven't had much luck using the procedures mentioned earlier, the end result is often a pronounced "bulge" in the drywall. If I was you and had access to some scrap drywall. I would find the locations of the studs behind the damaged area (usually 16 inches apart) and cut an area larger than the hole to overlap the studs. So if your holes are 3-4 inches in diameter then you should cut a section out that measures 5"x16". Then just cut a piece of scrap drywall to fit in the hole. Use the drywall tape and putty mentioned earlier. Let dry, sand, then paint. You will be much happier with the results...trust me. If you just want to fill in the holes and don't mind looking at an uneven finish, then by all means use the other suggestions.
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